Vionnet Sea Green Dress
Textile
Damage Repair
Hand Sewn Repairs
Jan 16, 2019
Sew sleeves back together, sew loose edge stitching.
Wet-Clean
Jan 16, 2019
Clean suction platten and add a layer of crepeline taped to edges. Block off areas not in use with Mylar. Spot clean dirty areas with solution: 2 fl. Oz enzyme cleaner, 1 Tbsp vulpex soap, 1 tsp orvus paste, 160 mL 91% isopropyl alcohol, 160 mL Distilled water. Clear with 91% isopropyl alcohol and distilled water. Hand wash with cold water and orvus paste.
Hand Sewn Repairs
Jan 18, 2019
Stitch fixed on neck
Humidification
Jan 18, 2019
Tried to steam out wrinkles, but silk is much too fragile Found tears in weakened silk, particularly in sweat stained areas.
Adhesive Repair/Removal
Jan 21, 2019
Used BevaTex and heat spatula to seal the small holes that formed in the under arm area after cleaning was completed.
Testing
Jan 21, 2019
Tests done on scrap of fabric for dying the dress due to color loss. Jacquard silk colors used: Virginian green, marine green (initial testing). Pro ion mix dye: aqua marine, emerald green. A large batch of concentrated dye needed for dress.
Dye
Jan 21, 2019 - Jan 23, 2019
The textile was placed in a large pot with 2 gallons of distilled water. Test dyes were added, along with 1.5 tsp emerald green (procion mix dye) and 1/2 tsp aqua marine (procion). Just under 1/3 cup soda ash also added. The dress was put in dye at 5:30pm and left overnight in dye. Next day 1 gallon of water and 3 tbsp Synthropol was used to rinse, and then two additional rinsing with 1 gallon of water each. Then the dress was turned over after noticing less green dye migrated to the water. Dress dried on racks. Next day, darker acid-based dye (white vinegar) used to change tone of dress from previous attempt.
Hand Sewn Repairs
Jan 28, 2019 - Feb 11, 2019
Patches made for tears on armpit using BevaTex Film and dyed excess silk tests. Adjust straps with better stitches and two more patches.
Stabilization
Feb 6, 2019
Iron piece with tissue barrier.